Greater Patagonian Trail 2023/24

I'm embarking on an epic journey from Santiago to Ushuaia with one rule: no planes! Originally, I planned to hike 1000km on the Greater Patagonian Trail, bike 1000km along the Carretera Austral, and cover the last 1000km by bus.

But plans change. Having felt on previous trails that I sometimes missed the hidden gems, I'm now open to new experiences. Instead of sticking strictly to my initial plan, I'll include a horse ride in place of some hiking, a ferry ride and more walking instead of cycling, and hitchhike the final stretch.

Here’s the stories from my favorite sections ….

  • View over Santiago de Chile at sunset during the ascent to Cerro Purgatorio on the Greater Patagonia Trail.

    GPT 01 | Cerro Purgatorio

    I hear some dogs barking in the distance. What time is it? It’s 9am already but I can hardly open my eyes ..... Read more

  • Laguna Dial mountain lake along the Greater Patagonia Trail

    GPT07 | Laguna Dial

    Strangely, being alone up here makes me feel quite safe. Suddenly, I spot a very basic shed. It looks deserted, but there’s a horse and a couple of dogs. Damn! ... Read more

  • Hiker riding a horse on rocky terrain above Laguna del Maule on the Greater Patagonia Trail

    GPT07 | Laguna del Maule option on horseback

    It feels strange letting the horse do all the hard work and I almost feel guilty as we climb several hundred meters up a mountain range. I can feel my horse panting and sweating beneath me .... Read more

  • Hiker standing on rocky terrain overlooking the crater of Descabezado Grande volcano on the Greater Patagonia Trail

    GPT 06 | Descabezado Grande

    The park ranger at the entrance tells me that I need to pay for the campground in the other national reserve where I plan to exit. It has to be paid online but no cellphone coverage here .... Read more

  • Hiker standing by Laguna del Diablo on the Five Lagunas Trail in Argentina

    5 Lagunas & Cerro Tronador

    We can see the next lagoon already … but the way down is not easy. Very steep and dusty with moving rocks all over the place. A big stone starts moving and hits my ankles from behind..... Read more

  • Rainbow over coastal mountains during the ferry crossing from Quellón to Puerto Chacabuco on the Greater Patagonia Trail

    Ferry Quellon - Puerto Chacabuco

    It’s a 5 hour bus ride to Quellón on Chiloé Island. I decide to take the 11am bus to have some time to explore the fisherman’s village. Arriving in Quellón, I’m unsure if it was a good decision. .... Read more

  • Turquoise lake beneath Cerro Castillo on the Las Horquetas Trail in Chile

    GPT 32 | Cerro Castillo (Las Horquetas)

    A few tents are already pitched, and the only person around is a guy standing in the middle of the trail, staring at his phone. He has a light pack and looks a bit worn out. A thru-hiker, perhaps? .... Read more

  • Hiker watching grazing llamas in Parque Patagonia on the Greater Patagonia Trail

    GPT35 | Parque Patagonia

    The weather forecast predicts rain and possibly snow this evening. Should we walk the 30 km to Casa de Piedra, a refuge? .... Read more

  • Hiker standing by Laguna de los Tres below Monte Fitz Roy in Argentina

    GPT39 | Monte Fitz Roy

    Heavy wind gusts in the morning destroy my emergency blanket, which I used during the night to protect my sleeping bag from rain or snow potentially blowing into my little cave ... Read more

  • Hiker sitting on a wooden railing overlooking the Perito Moreno Glacier in Patagonia.

    GPT44 | Glacier Perito Moreno

    The road is mostly flat and straight, cutting through the pampa. Although we’re driving a small, slightly old Ford, I soon forget the 80-kilometer speed limit .... Read more

  • Hiker standing on rocky ground overlooking Glaciar Chico near Refugio García Soto on the way to Circo de los Altares

    GPT38 | Glaciar Chico / Campo de Hielo Sur

    The first refuge is only 8 km away. "Not much," thinks the thru-hiker. But it soon dawns on us that walking on a glacier is a completely different game .... Read more

  • View over lakes and autumn-colored valleys on the Dientes de Navarino Trail in Chile

    GPT67 | Dientes de Navarino

    I stop for lunch by one of the first lakes. It looks like a natural lake, but upon closer inspection, I notice a pile of tree branches at one end. A beaver’s handiwork, perhaps? .... Read more

Thinking about hiking the GPT?

The Greater Patagonian Trail is not a classic (thru)hiking trail like some of the others you find on this website. It rather is an “informal route network that consists mostly of trails, roads and cross-country routes that were not created with hikers in mind.” Navigating with GPS, cultural sensitivity, river fording and assessing when to turn around (and when not) to me are key skills to truly enjoy these partly challenging and also rewarding routes.

Start by downloading the GPT Hikers Manual put together by Jan Dudeck and the community of previous GPT hikers. An abundance of information and knowledge on Trails and Sections, Cultural Aspects and Required Skills as well as Pitfalls, Challenges and Do’s and Dont’s.

Find it here